Turbo installation rules

1. Find out why the old turbo failed

A turbo almost never fails on its own. Before fitting, find out why the old one failed: oil starvation, dirty oil, a blocked oil drain, high crankcase pressure, a foreign object in the intake. If the cause isn't fixed, the new turbo will fail the same way.

2. Change the oil and filters

• Change the engine oil — use the grade recommended by the engine manufacturer.
• Replace the oil filter.
• Replace the air filter. Check the air filter housing and intake pipes for debris.

3. Check and clean the oil feed line

• The line must not be blocked with carbon or sludge. If in doubt — replace it.
• Use new copper washers and gaskets.
• Do not use sealant on oil connections: particles of it end up inside the turbo.

4. Check the oil drain line

• Oil must drain freely from the turbo; the line must have no kinks or blockages.
• Check the crankcase ventilation: with high crankcase pressure the oil can't drain and is pushed out past the seals.

5. Clean the intercooler and boost hoses

• If the old turbo was pushing oil or broke apart — flush the intercooler and boost hoses. Oil and debris left inside will damage the new turbo.
• Check the hoses for cracks and make sure the clamps are tight.
• Make sure there are no foreign objects in the intake.

6. Prime the turbo with oil before starting

Before fitting, pour clean engine oil into the turbo's oil inlet and turn the shaft by hand a few times. The turbo must never run dry, not even for a second.

7. First start

• Before starting, crank the engine without starting it (for example with the fuel supply disabled) until the oil pressure light goes out.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 3–5 minutes without touching the throttle.
• Check for oil leaks and air leaks.

8. The first miles

• Avoid hard acceleration at first.
• After driving, let the engine idle for 1–2 minutes before switching off so the turbo can cool down.
• Keep an eye on the oil level.